How To Light A Sharkstooth Scrim (Part 1)

by Rose Brand 29. January 2010 10:39

One might think that a fabric company has little to do with lighting. After all, while scenery and lighting design are inexorably linked, how important can fabric be to either? Yet the choices a designer makes in fabric, as with all the other elements, will directly affect the final look of the production. This series of articles discusses common types of fabric, why they are used, and challenges they may present to a lighting designer.

ANGLE, ANGLE, ANGLE
Lighting vis-à-vis fabric is nowhere more critical then when dealing with sharkstooth scrim (or simply "scrim" as some refer to it). Lit correctly, a  sharkstooth scrim provides one of the most magical effects: the bleed-through. If the scrim is lit correctly, it can appear completely opaque; as the lighting is changed, the scrim will “dissolve,” allowing the scene behind it to “bleed through” the scrim or the scenery painted on the scrim. Continue the change, and the scrim will disappear completely, as if by magic. But what is the “correct” way to make this happen?

In real estate, the three most important factors are “location, location, location.” To create this effect with sharkstooth scrim, the most important things to remember are angle, angle, angle. Combined with a stringent control of the lighting, the correct angle will make the task easy. Knowing the correct angle is simple: just think oblique or, if you prefer, steep, and you're well on your way.

We often get calls from less experienced users telling us that our sharkstooth scrim “doesn't work.” When pressed, the caller usually says that the sharkstooth scrim will not provide an opaque surface and that the scene behind the scrim is visible when the scrim is lit. Invariably, we find that one of two things is going wrong. First, prior to the bleed-through, the space behind the scrim must be completely dark. The key word here is “completely.” Any light behind the scrim reflects on the scene that the scrim is trying to hide, allowing the audience to see it, albeit dimly. Already, the magic is beginning to weaken. For a scrim to be most effective the area behind it must be totally unlit. Of course, the brighter the lighting on the scrim itself, the less likely it is that anyone will see a glimmer or gleam shining from behind the scrim, but every effort should be made to keep the area behind the scrim completely dark until the “reveal” cue is running.

Now the area is as dark as possible (our caller assures us), but it still “doesn't work.” The scene is still visible through the lit scrim. Here's where the angle of the lighting is critical. Ideally, the lighting on the scrim is at such a steep angle that it cannot possibly illuminate the scene behind — so steep that any spill “buries” within a foot or so of the scrim. You must create a “trough” of space between the scrim and nearby scenery so that any light that spills through the scrim hits nothing and won't show to the audience.

The most common way to achieve this is to have some type of strip lighting at the top and directly in front of the scrim. The majority of the light from the strips washes the front of the scrim (with some spill downstage), and any excess light shines through into the empty space between the scrim and the scenery and is not visible. If you have extra line sets and a spare blackout drape, you can ensure this by hanging the drape about a foot behind your scrim at the upstage edge of your “trough” and flying it out moments before the bleed-through. You still need to control the spill upstage or the blackout drop will be visible, most particularly as it flies just before the bleed-through begins.

In Part 2 of this article we’ll discuss other lighting placement options for correctly lighting a sharkstooth scrim.

For more information on lighting a scrim check out our following blog posts:

How To Light A Sharkstooth Scrim (Part 2)

How To Light A Sharkstooth Scrim (Part 3)

Please see our Scrim Fabrics for a broad selection of products in varying widths, composition, and colors.

www.RoseBrand.com

Comments

12/5/2009 4:29:22 AM #

I've had good luck with mini-strips hung about a foot in front of the scrim and aimed straight down.

Bill Cone United States | Reply

12/5/2009 5:59:27 AM #

A good beginning article, but I would never recommend masking over any emergency exit signs, good way to get in trouble fast!

Amanda Egloff United States | Reply

12/5/2009 8:14:13 AM #

Amanda Egloff: I would never recommend masking over any emergency exit signs, good way to get in trouble fast!

I agree with the above comment.  The comment about masking the "Exit" lights should be qualified so that you are not misconstrued - advocating violating fire codes.

Philip Barruel United States | Reply

12/5/2009 8:46:06 AM #

Excellent point about the Exit lights. We've modified the post to avoid miscommunication. Many thanks to Amanda and Philip!

Rose Brand United States | Reply

12/5/2009 9:53:22 AM #

Dear Rose Brand et al,

Thanks from a lighting neophyte; I knew the "keep it completely dark behind the scrim" part, but somehow never cognated on the "oblique angle" aspect of preventing bleed--and yet it is so obvious, now that I read it.

A question about scrim, though:  I am in a space with no fly system; that is, I have rigging, but I can't actually fly anything.  Is it possible to get a scrim that can travel--and what would be even more amazing, can travel with a split down the center--and yet still be "tight" and straight enough to work as a true scrim?

Valka Bijur United States | Reply

12/6/2009 12:06:32 PM #

Valka,

The answer is yes you can travel a scrim and still have it stay pretty tight.  

It will not be as good as having a bottom pipe, but should work well.  

Also if you use “backpacks” on the traveler track the scrim will be fairly flat both opening and closing.  

The split down the center probably won’t work because of the stretchy nature of scrim causing it to hourglass.

The leading edge will hourglass no matter what so travelling is not an ideal way of using a scrim – you could always hang a black leg on the onstage edge covering part of the scrim so it will look better.

rosebrand United States | Reply

12/7/2009 7:35:04 PM #

If the 'split scrim' were a permanent installation, you might be able to get a scrim with a pocket in the onstage edges, run a pipe through and hang it from the track. It would keep the edge straighter, not perfect. Or you might try wrapping and stapling the leading edge of the scrim around a 6" or so piece of lumber/ply (black) and hanging that from the track. Again, not perfect.

Gerard Bourcier United States | Reply

12/7/2009 9:40:11 PM #

I'd like to add another use for a scrim: You can use a black scrim to a static star-drop to create a realistic "twinkling" effect.  If you have a star-drop but you don't have enough circuits to create enough individual channels of control, run all star-drop channels through one circuit, then hang a black scrim in front of the star drop, with the bottom pipe floating a few inches above the deck.  When you need the star-drop to twinkle, a stage-hand can gently tap or push the bottom pipe.  The motion of the scrim in front of the static star-drop creates a twinkling effect for the audience, as individual lights pass behind fibers of the scrim.

Pete Sauber United States | Reply

12/21/2009 2:38:27 PM #

I saw a professional opera where the entire production was performed upstage of a full black scrim hung on the first lineset. It gave a great misty, moody effect. All lighting was accomplished from on-stage positions, including bridge followspots. The only problem was for the box seats on the sides. Because on the oblique angle and the nature of sharkstooth scrim, visibility for these patrons was severely reduced. So....... Audience sight lines is also something to consider when determining the effectiveness of sharkstooth scrim.

Daniel Gordon United States | Reply

12/21/2009 3:14:45 PM #

Excellent points made above about safety, twinkling by nudging the scrim, etc.  I had the opportunity of using a painted scrim to create a layered, waving palm tree effect with the scrim in front of a sky drop.  The "trunk" of the tree was on the third layer US with additional "leaves" being on two layers in front.  I was fortunate to have a well used (old) oft-painted scrim I could cut up.  The trunk was weighted and well supported with a bit of opera netting and a slight breeze from a box fan set the entire grove gently waving in the breeze.  The bounced light from the sky gave it a rather diaphanous look which turned out  quite lovely.

Greg Blakey United States | Reply

12/21/2009 3:28:22 PM #

Hi Scrim Experts:

Rosebrand used to sell shrink mirror scrim (not to be confused with their shrink mirror, which has an opaque backing). The material was difficult to get flat, but when the lighting was right (some front lighting on the stage and audience, and a close spot on a person behind it) it produced a unique holographic effect where the actor's image would seem to be floating in the room (the reflection of the theatre would be composited with the actor).

In situations where large pieces of two-way mirror glass would be too heavy and possibly dangerous, are there any suggestions for achieving this mirror scrim effect?

Todd Winkler United States | Reply

12/21/2009 5:45:10 PM #

This was INCREDIBLY helpful.

We're going to use a scrim effect in ...Putnam County Spelling Bee, and this tip has helped me redefine how this effect will be achieved. Instead of a "see through" effect, I need a "shadow puppet" effect to appear from behind. Now, I will angle the front lighting higher and at a more narrow angle, so that the translucent material behind, onto which the shadows are projected, will help "front fill" the wall effect.

Sean Harrington United States | Reply

12/24/2009 3:59:54 AM #

The use of a blackout drape behind the scrim will also allow you to project images on to the scrim without illuminating the set. The drape can then be flown out for the reveal without the focal plain of the image changing.

Douglas Raponi United States | Reply

12/24/2009 1:04:57 PM #

Great advice on scrim lighting. Thanks!

Here's something that we have done which has allowed us flexibility with our staging, lighting and budgets.

Our stage has dark brick walls at the back and the upstage center area has large high open acting area (far from audience); but good for special scenes or effects.

We wanted a cyc and the ability to do scrim; so we bought blue sharks tooth scrim for the all the back walls. When all the panels hang, it create a seamless cyc. We do use a black curtain (previously purchased) to put directly behind the scrim so that you do not see the brick.

One production we masked characters in the upstage area (behind the scrim) with black fabric. We places lights behind scrim and when cue came, the black masking curtains were removed, lights turned on and "surprise," - the cyc that had been used for the entire production now gave a window view into special scenes.

The blue scrim cyc is not as reflective a solid cyc material - but it gives off a slightly diffused/softened version of the traditional cyc.

See photos and video:
www.eastertrilogy.com/Easter_Trilogy/One_Voice.html" rel="nofollow">www.eastertrilogy.com/.../One_Voice.html

www.eastertrilogy.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROznpyh3kYc

www.christmastrilogy.com

Jerry Skaggs United States | Reply

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